Going to Maine? STOP !!!!!!!! In PORTSMOUTH , New Hampshire

I must have passed through Portsmouth, NH several times on my way to Maine and never stopped or spent time there.  I would be lucky enough to have the opportunity to spend a few days in Portsmouth on this trip and would recommend including it in your itinerary or even making Portsmouth the center of your next trip to New England.  It’s a beautiful harbor village on the Piscataqua River with great restaurants, friendly people, and interesting sights and activities. 

Monday September 30, 2013

Merle and I head up to Portsmouth , NH – about a 4 ½   hr ride from Queens. It seems the preferred route of “Clarise”, my GPS is I95 to I91 to I84 to I90 to 495 back to I 95 rather than stay on I 95 the whole way.  Sounds complicated but I guess it’s the fastest way.  The weather is great and the trip is pleasant.  Not as much foliage as I was expecting; I guess due to the dry weather.   Our first stop – Wentworth by the Sea Marriot Hotel and Spa in New Castle.  

It’s hard to believe that what we see now is only a small portion of the original grand seaside resort in the late 1800’s. The resort was reconstructed after almost being demolished and now holds several awards including the American Institute of Architects’ Award of Excellence, AAA’s Four Diamond Award, and National Trust for Historic Preservation recognition. 

After checking in, we head down to “Latitudes”, one of the restaurants on site.  The weather is warm and sunny so we choose the outside deck overlooking the Marina. 

Of course the first dish is the New England clam chowder which had just the right creaminess and was loaded with clams and potatoes.  I had the Little Harbor fish tacos which was rare tuna, avocado, and a spicy salsa.  If you prefer the tuna cooked medium or well, the chef will accommodate that.  The wait staff was very knowledgeable and attentive.

4:00 and it is time for the Spa Treatment.  There are several treatments and packages to choose from.  Merle opts for the Reiki and I choose the “De-stress” massage with Mary.  After a brief consultation I begin the 80 minute treatment which included a blend of healing oils.  The tightness and soreness melted away.  

As if it couldn’t get any better, I head into the heated indoor pool and hot tub.  

Up to the room to relax a little more (Is that even possible at this point?) before dinner.

Dinner is at the other on-site restaurant, “SALT”. 

  

One of the great things about a lot of the restaurants we will eat in is the use of locally-farmed produce and fresh seafood.  SALT is at the top of the list for that.    We select of few items from the “Chef’s Bar” to share:  Prosciutto Wrapped Maine Scallops served on Squid ink with garlic, oregano salad and lemon honey;

also the Wood Oven Baked Oysters – local Blue Point oysters, creamed spinach, pernod, farmers style bacon and Fontina.

Each one was exceptional. The selection from “Social Beginnings” was the Rustic Hand Rolled Gnocci – local mushrooms (I picked them out and gave them to Merle), spinach, garlic (mmmm), crispy pancetta, sheep’s milk, cheese, and tartufo cream.

We were really not looking for another appetizer but we had to see what the presentation of a dish with a “salt block” looked like.  New England family farms beef carpaccio was presented on a Himalayan Salt block with orange and espresso crust, truffle, Gorganzola cream, pepper cress, and crispy capers.  The beef picked up a hint of the salt from the salt block and I’m sure the picture will not do it justice.  

The salad was Salt roasted baby beets, local goat cheese, baby arugula, black pepper, caramel, and seasoned olive oil.  Can you believe we haven’t even gotten to the main dish yet????  I’m in New England so I’m going sea food all the way. I have the East Coast Halibut with Hand Spun Pasta – local Little Neck clams, sun blushed tomatoes, artichokes, capers, lemon parsley butter, and garlic (mmmm).  It could not have been more perfectly done and presented. 

We were only going to share two desserts but they insisted we needed to try certain ones, so they gave us a sampling of a few others.  All of the desserts are house-made.  I’m embarrassed to say we tried the Tipsy Tiramisu, cappuccino and hazelnut gelato, house made Nutella, crème Brule, and molten chocolate cake.  

  
Don’t hate me.  Just roll me to my room. 

Tuesday, October 1

You would think I would never want to look at food again, but unfortunately that’s not how it works for me.  For breakfast you can choose from the menu or the Breakfast Buffet.  I’m sorry.  Is that really a choice?  The buffet included every imaginable breakfast item.  Fresh fruit, cereals, muffins, breads, oatmeal, eggs, potatoes, bacon, sausage, waffles, smoothies, yogurt and a few other things I’m sure I forgot to write down.  I have to say I was pretty good and did not try every single item available.  

We make a quick stop at Fort Constitution before our first appointment.  They are doing a bit of construction on the site and there isn’t much left of the Fort that is accessible but there are great views and if you like Lighthouses you can get a close up.  You can actually get a better look at the Fort on the Harbor Cruise which I will write about later. 

10:00 and we are off to “Discover Portsmouth Arts, History and Cultural Education Center”.  Easier said than done as “Clarise” (the GPS) can not distinguish between Middle Street and Middle Road and a bridge detour leads to further confusion.  We call the center and get proper directions.  (no offense, Clarise)  Although there is much information here, you can obtain much more if you go to the tourism office that houses the Chamber of Commerce.

 We head across the street for a quick tour and history of the John Paul Jones House Museum. 

12:00 Lunch at “Blue Mermaid Island Grill” located on what is known as “The Hill”.  Would you be surprised to learn that “Clarise” could not locate “The Hill”?  Fortunately it was not too far from the Discovery Center and we were able to locate it easily enough.

Scott and Karen Logan are the owners and Scott and staff made us feel like we  were locals.  With  Caribbean-inspired restaurant,  I opt for the Lobster Quesadilla which did not disappoint.   Dessert is banana bread with ice cream and banana crème Brulee. 

After lunch we cross the Piscataqua River into Kittery, Maine to check out the Outlets.  Neither Merle nor I are big on shopping, least of all Outlets, but for someone looking for  good prices, there are dozens of choices from Adidas, Banana Republic, Eddie Bauer, Nike, Talbots, Tommy Hilfiger and many many more.

Back into Portsmouth to check in at The Port Inn.  The Port Inn is the longest operating lodging facility in Portsmouth and is locally owned and operated. While not the ambience of the Wentworth, the rooms are large, clean and comfortable and have amenities such as a microwave and refrigerator and the facility has a heated outdoor pool, and free continental breakfast.  There are also studios and mini kitchen accommodations available and offers pet-friendly rooms. 

Dinner is at “Tulsi” Indian restaurant in Kittery.

The Boti Lamb Kabob we ordered to share is too spicy for both of us.  While the wait staff tried to accommodate us with a different selection, the main course was just about coming out so we just returned the dish.  My Salmon Tandori is fine and not as spicy.

Back to Portsmouth again for dessert at “Kilwins”  Kilwins’s has house-made chocolates, ice cream, fudge, caramel apples, and candy.  Janette showed us around and made a few selections in the front of the house open “kitchen” area.  The ice cream selections included old standards and many innovative flavors.  I like the dark chocolates best so opted for something simple like dark chocolate non pariels.  Time to head back to The Port Inn for a good nights sleep.

Wednesday, Oct 2

Light Continental breakfast at the hotel and then off to Strawbery Banke Museum. 

The museum is an authentic 10-acre outdoor history museum similar to Bethpage Restoration or Historic Williamsburg, but seemed more authentic to me.  Thirty-two of the buildings are on their original site and four others were moved to preserve them.  You can travel through time and talk to Mrs. Shapiro, a Ukrainian Jewish immigrant, watch a meal being made over an open hearth fire, learn how to weave on a loom, and walk through the many houses and gardens.  There are plenty of children’s activities including hands-on interactive play space, story telling, and “Toys through Time”.  A Smartphone tour is available or you can just walk the streets.

I had two favorites: The Marden-Abbot House and Store (circa 1720) which was a family-run grocery store where you could see all the old products, many of which still exist today and even have the same logo.

The Shapley-Drisco House which contrasts home life in the 1790’s and the 1950s.  The best part was seeing the living room and kitchen from the 1950s and  saying” That was the TV we had” or “That was the exact same table my mother had”.  Also notice the two Hula Hoops outside the house on each side.

 The museum is open for self-guided tours, demonstrations and hands-on activities from the beginning of May through the end of October and for guided walking tours and special events between November 1 and December 30.

12:30 Lunch is at the “Portsmouth Gas Light Restaurant. 

Merle and I share Thai Spring Rolls stuffed with gingered duck and pork. I have the Lobster BLT which, for me are two perfect foods in one.

We make our way down to the docks for the Portsmouth Harbor Cruises  but we are a little early so we check out the area and notice a restaurant dock right next to the cruises called “The Oar House”.  We are introduced to the owner, and she graciously shows us the full restaurant facility across the street from the dock.  The décor and ambience are just incredible. As with every building in Portsmouth, there is a history.  Another one to add to my list for my return trip.  We board the “Heritage” for our 3:00 Harbor Cruise. 

We are again blessed with a beautiful and unusually warm day for this time of year and a cruise is the perfect way to enjoy it.  The harbor cruise is a 1 ¼  hour narrated cruise on the Piscataqua River. Once again we learn about the interesting history of Portsmouth from its settlement in 1623 to modern day.  The Piscataqua River, itself is interesting in that it divides New Hampshire and Maine and that it is the second fastest flowing river (topping at 4 knots).  The first being the Columbia River.  Even the Memorial Bridge has its own interesting history.

I don’t think I’ve ever been so interested in American History.  The photo opportunities are endless so do not forget your camera.  Lighthouses, forts, mansions, an abandoned Naval Prison, the Portsmouth Naval Shipyards, bridges and more. 

The narration and stories are very interesting, especially around the Prison.  Once known as the “Alcatraz of the East”, the building still has its castle like appearance even though it has fallen into disrepair.  It was said that if an officer or guard allowed a prisoner to escape that the officer or guard would have to serve out the remaining sentence of the prisoner. The following story is recounted from the book “Stars in Blue” but has not been officially confirmed:   

     “ A Navy sailor was ordered to take a prisoner to the Naval Prison and the two traveled side by side, with the prisoner handcuffed.  As they changed trains in Boston, the con asked the sailor for a cigarette.  As the sailor dug for a Lucky Strike and matches the prisoner smashed him in the mouth with his manacles and jumped to escape.  The sailor, his upper lip badly torn and bleeding, reacted quickly, drawing out his .45 automatic and dropping the prisoner.  Initial Navy surgery on the sailors lip was badly botched, and subsequent plastic surgery did not help.  The sailors name?   Humphrey DeForest Bogart.

Other available cruises include an “Isles of Shoals Cruise” which includes the nine legendary islands located six miles off the coast, an “Inland River & Fall Foiliage Cruise” which heads inland to either Great Bay or Cocheco River, and Evening, Sunset & Lights Cruises. 

We take a quick detour before our next tour and stop at Temple Israel on State Street. Established over 100 years ago the Temple currently operates as a Conservative synagogue.  Unfortunately we could not go inside but on line photos show the beauty of the Temple.

Onto our behind the scene tour of “The Music Hall”  The Music Hall is a “performing arts center featuring curated entertainment from around the world.”  The tour of the Hall includes information on the theater, its history including the theaters relationship to ships and sailors, its renovations, and a look at the interesting design of the Men’s and Women’s bathrooms.  I kid you not – I really can not describe it. Unfortunately we did not have enough time on this trip to see any shows or films, so that also goes on the list for next time.

Dinner is at the “Portsmouth Brewery”. 

Located in the heart of downtown Portsmouth and near the docks, the brewpub serves food and handcrafted beers. I’m not a real beer drinker, but being it’s a pub with specialty beers I give it a shot.  I choose the “Fruit Gruit”.  Gruit is a medieval style beer utilizing herbs instead of hops.  “This version uses all local ingredients from the Historical Gardens of Strawbery Banke.  The fruits used in this beer are Reliance Peaches, Damson Plums and Elderberries.  The herbal flavors come from the use of Mugwort, Horehound, Hyssop, Burgamont leaf, Sage and Rosemary.” I am pleasantly surprised.  Perhaps I will give up my supplements for Gruit!!  I have the Cauliflower & Leek soup and opt for the fish – a Fluke in pumpkin puree with roasted turnips.  

We were due to hit the decks along the river on Bow Street after dinner but it was a long day so Merle and I to head back to the Port Inn to rest up and try to get to sleep early.

Thursday, October 3

10:00 and we are back to the River for our Gundalow boat ride.  So, in order to keep it interesting you may need to know what a Gundalow is, as opposed to a Gondola. Again we must go back to the history of Portsmouth and the Piscataqua River.  A gundalow is a type of flat bottom cargo barge that was used along the Piscataqua River in order to move cargo to and from larger vessels that could not get into the inner harbors.  Coal and wood were common cargos and the vessel used the rapid tidal currents and one sail for propulsion.  The vessel is so native to the area that you may not even find it in some dictionaries.  We were lucky enough to get on a sail with a local school and get quite an education about the vessel and its maritime history.

We are due to stop at the Seacoast Science Center that offers educational programs on the natural and environmental history of the NH seacoast but it was another glorious day and a local recommended that we stop at “Petey’s” for lunch so we depart along scenic Route 1A south toward Rye and Hampton Beach.  This is a route not to be missed.  The houses, mansions, and coastal scenery is magnificent and we meander slowly south letting everyone pass us.  (For those that know me, that is amazing just by itself) We stop at Petey’s and although it is somewhat past the season for the area, the parking lot is jammed.  Located in Rye just across from the Atlantic Ocean, the restaurant is a true find. 

I have a Seafood Chowder, which is different from the Fish Chowder.  I would normally have Lobster but the waitress recommended trying something else.  I usually try to avoid fried fish but this is the place to have it if I am going to have it.  I have the fried Oysters and remember why I love fried fish.  Great cole slaw with it! We head back on to Route 1A passing through Hampton Beach and into Seabrook where we eventually head West to 495 for the trip home.  It was such a beautiful day I think I could have stayed on 1A into Boston.  Maybe we have to put a 1A Road Trip on the list for next year?

For more information and photos check out Merle’s blog at: www.merleswhirls.blogspot.com/
For further information on the area go to  www.goportsmouthnh.com