SOUTHERN VERMONT VIA NEW YORK

THIS MAY NOT ALL MAKE SENSE UNLESS YOU READ MERLE'S BLOG

http://www.merleswhirls.blogspot.com/2014/09/i-still-lovermont.html

 

Wednesday, September 3, 2014

“Clarice” my GPS, heads us to the George Washington Bridge via I don't know how from Woodhaven, but once I give her the responsibility, I am in her control. She gets us to the PIP (Palisades Interstate Parkway ) and onto I87- (New York State Thruway), up through Albany and onto local roads after Troy into Vermont. Our first destination is lunch at Zoey's Double Hex. The original Double Hex was established in the early 70's and got its name from the two adjoining hex shaped structures. Zoey's was established in 2000 and expanded in 2006. They are still known for great burgers and Merle makes every attempt to chow down the “Holy Moley Burger” which you should have read about on her blog. I choose to start the trip with a spinach, bacon, and goat cheese salad.

Merle and I share the Hex onion strings which have a spicy flavor and are not greasy at all. For dessert we share the Maple Bread Pudding. We met two friendly gentlemen (Actually they just wanted their photo taken for the newspaper when they overheard us talking) from the Otter Creek Brewery up in Middlebury, which we would not be able to get to.

This would have started a list of other places to visit in the region. www.zoeyscom  .

Our next stop is in Arlington at the local office of Wilcox Ice Cream. Chris Wilcox gives us some of the history of the family owned business. The original dairy farm dates back to 1898. In 1928 ice cream was added to the dairy products and in 1999 the milk distribution part was closed. The business is still run by mostly family members with 9 employees in total. Due to a fire in 2001 in the milking barn and manufacturing plants, they have had to improvise the production process and also added distribution of other products and a web site. The ingredients and process has stayed the same, regardless of the production locations. Now for the best part – the tasting. Chris allows the ice cream to temper just right as I am intrigued by the flavors.

 www. wilcox - ice - cream .com

Dinner and overnight tonight is at the Reluctant Panther, a small luxury hotel. Merle and I have the Snowflake and 3 Sister Deluxe Suite, with rooms adjoining through a common alcove. Very spacious and comfortable with a fabulous bathroom.

Dinner in the Inn starts with a small tasting of blackened watermelon with fresh yogurt and micro greens selected by the chef. I’m guessing that Merle has already told you what it is called and how it is spelled. On the recommendation of another diner, I select the “Pork Belly & Diver Scallops” with brown butter carrot puree and fingerling potatoes. I was correct in that I never expected to get through the entire pork belly but it was worth it just to taste it.

 Merle and I always run into characters on our road trips and this time was no different. The table next to us consisted of, what we assume to be husband and wife, who must have started their day wine tasting instead of ice cream tasting. He begins to belch in a way not very appealing for eating dinner and progresses to what sounds like a whale in heat. I actually thought he was going to be sick. He leaves the table and she begins sneezing, for like five minutes straight. When he returns to the table she begins hiccupping for another five minutes. They both leave the table with remaining wine bottle in hand. Merle and I head up to our rooms to discuss the day and get a good night’s sleep.

Thursday, September 4, 2014

Breakfast is also at the Inn and served from a menu selection to order. I choose 2 eggs over-easy, house made bread, and breakfast potatoes, and juice. Fresh fruit and fresh banana muffins are brought to the table. www. reluctantpanther .com

Our first stop of the day is to meet up with Ron Mancini of Mother Myrick's Confectionary, who will be giving us a private tour of the area. We start right at his facility that makes the chocolate and other products. This, like Wilcox, is also a relatively small operation, with only 13 employees, but puts out a comparatively large production of products like chocolates and butter crunch to stollens and their infamous 'Lemon Lulu”.  A trip to the bakery comes later.  www.mothermyricks.com  

We stop by another facility in the same industrial park called Wagatha’s that makes organic dog biscuits. Erica Olsen shows us around where the biscuits are made in small batches with human grade ingredients. There is a selection of flavors such as “Super Berry”, “Vermont Pumpkin Pie”, and “Beddy-Bye” just to name a few. They are good enough for human consumption and available on line at: www.wagathas.com

Our next stop is Earth Sky and Time organic farms. We meet up with Oliver who shows us around the kitchen where fresh bread and baked goods are prepared, along with hummus and veggie burgers which are sold to stores and restaurants. An extension is being built which will be used as a community barn and performance space. On Wednesday nights, through October, there is a weekly al-fresco farm to table vegetarian buffet at the Wilburton Inn with eclectic live music. We were sorry to have missed that as it goes on the “to do” list.www.earthskytime.com

We then head to Hot Glass Studio and Gallery. We get there in time to see the end of a glass blowing class where you get to make your own blown glass bowls and/or vases. The owner and artist, Andrew Weill, who started the business in 2000, is enthusiastic and creative and you can really tell he loves what he does.

 www.manchesterhotglass.com

Feeling a little weak…we stop for a quick bite of lunch at the Depot Cafe and share the “Hajro's Special Pizza” which is freshly roasted asparagus, Turkish feta cheese, and kalamata olive paste. The cafe is right in the middle of a large furniture store.

We go back to pick up my car and head over to the Visitor's Center for the Backroad Discovery Guided Tour. You can choose between the “Revolutionary and Civil War Tour” or the “Southern Vermont Sampler” In another few weeks, there will be Fall Foliage Tours. We picked the sampler.

Sharon is our guide in a van that accommodates a small group. Today it was just Merle and I and two other women; a mother and daughter. So talk about a small world. We ask where they are from and they say “Jericho”. Well, I grew up in Jericho, from like 1955 to 1967. The daughter is now living in Israel but the rest of the family lives like right around the corner from where I was. So now we are all: “mishpucha.” The trip begins with a beautiful vista off the road where you can see the mountains and valleys in a panoramic view. The area is in between the Taconic Mountain range and the Green Mountains. Along the way she gives us anecdotes and history of the area.  Merle has already given you the rest of the sights.

 www.backroaddiscovery.com

We next check in at the Casablanca Motel. Aside from having unique accommodations, the surrounding property is also beautiful and has gazebos, a fire pit, and available lawn games. Another advantage is that certain pets are welcome in select cabins. Hosts Linda and Diane are friendly and welcoming. www.CasablancaMotel.com

Dinner is at the Arlington Inn in Arlington, VT which is about seven miles south of Manchester on Route 7A. The Arlington Inn is an 1847 Village Estate that offers 18 guest rooms and a full service restaurant and tavern. We are met by Willie Docto of Vermont Gay Tourism Association, who set up part of the itinerary for us. Vermont Gay Tourism is promoting the gay-owned and gay-friendly businesses in VT. Most of the Inns and venues in the area accommodate and even promote same sex weddings. You can get more information at: www.vermontgaytourism.com

Friday, September 5, 2014

Berta Maginniss, Executive Director of Manchester and the Mountains Regional Chamber of Commerce, picks us up at the Motel for breakfast and another driving tour of the surrounding area. Breakfast is at the Gourmet Deli and I have Blueberry Buttermilk pancakes with, of course, Vermont Maple syrup. The road tour includes passing the major mountains in the area including Bromley, Equinox, and Stratton. We see hikers coming off of the Appalachian Trail and Green Mountain National Forest. It is in between seasons right now, but Bromley is open on the weekends and has a few activities available. Mt. Equinox is privately owned by a monastery of Carthusian monks and accessible via the toll road to Skyline Drive. We were not going up the mountain today and it goes on the “to do” list. The Fall Foliage and Ski season will be starting soon and it is great to be in the area when it is nice and quiet. Our next stop is a covered bridge simply referred to as, “the covered bridge” and a view of Norman Rockwell's one time studio when he resided in this area before heading to Stockbridge, MA. There is a group launching their kayaks into the Battenkill River and I am jealous. Fly fishing is also a big activity in the area. 

We head back to pick up my car again to meet with Kenny Valenzuela, Conference and Catering Manager, at the Equinox Inn for lunch.

It begins with an amazing bread plate with Jalapeno jelly, whole grain breads, corn muffin, carrots and a plum. Both Merle and I opt for a lobster roll. Kenny gives us some information about the Inn and we will be coming back for dinner and a tour later. On our way out of the parking lot, we run into Lauren from our Backroads Discovery Tour.

Next we are off to Hildene, the former home of Robert Todd Lincoln and family. Robert was the only child of the Lincoln's to survive to adulthood. He was the president of the Pullman Company, which was the largest manufacturing corporation in America. On display at Hildene is Sunbeam , a 1903 Pullman Palace car built during Robert's tenure. It includes the story of “Many Voices” which are the employees of the company including the porters. It was very enlightening and the car itself is a magnificent restoration. I couldn't help think that the political and social climate now is not that much different from then. The “one percent” traveling in opulent luxury and the working class, those lucky enough to have jobs, many only making minimum wage which is not enough to live on. The only difference is that the majority of manufacturing in the US is non-existent and the major corporations use foreign labor instead of domestic. 

As it turns out, our meeting with Stephanie Moffet-Hynds, Programming Director of Hildene, is an interesting discussion of Hildene's mission, including topics such as civil discourse, “values into action”, “choose action over apathy” and the “Last Best Hope” series produced by Daniel Karslake which would be running at Hildene in September.

The non-profit Friends of Hildene purchased the estate in 1978 and 412 acres are still intact. You can walk the grounds and many trails or take the tram to the major buildings and exhibits. There are the gardens, an observatory, the Pullman car, the Rowland Agricultural Center at Hilden Farm, and of course the home and the Museum store. There are some really spectacular views of the Battenkill Valley. There are many special programs offered at Hildene during the year and special events. Guess who we run into at the Museum shop on our way out? Lauren and her mom again! Once mishpucha always mishpucha and I wouldn't be surprised to run into them again in the future. Maybe on a visit to Jericho? www.hildene.org

Tonight we will be staying at the Ira Allen House , a B & B operated by Kevin Marvelli and his partner Michael Garvey . Like many of the places in Manchester, this has a rich history and Kevin and Michael will be happy to chat about it. Merle and I have a “double suite” which includes a large deluxe room, a small bedroom, and a shared bath. Very quaint, cute and comfortable. Merle chills, while I head out to explore the Northshire Bookstore in town. It is a very large store with books, games, gifts, music, and a Wi-fi cafe. I resist buying any more books as my bookshelves at home are filled with read and un-read books galore. 

I head back to the B&B to pick up Merle for dinner back at the Equinox Inn

Dinner starts out with a cup of New England clam chowder. The appetizer of mussels which includes Fregola pasta, house cured Vermont bacon, Beurre Espelette, and crostini is way too spicy for Merle so I get the whole thing. I order the “Day Boat Chatham Cod” with ancient grains pilaf, chard, fennel, Easter egg radishes, and tomato Vierge. Merle had the rack of lamb and Duck confetti with brie. There was some little piece of something in it that Merle bit into so the waiter brought out the Chef to talk to Merle about it. Chef Segale apologized and explained it was a small piece of cartilage and also explained more about the spicy mussels. Back to the B&B.

Saturday, September 6 2014
Breakfast is, of course, at the Ira Allen B&B. It starts out with fresh made “Icelandic yogurt” which is made by a lady down the road who actually milks the cows for the yogurt. With fresh made granola and fresh fruit, I ask for seconds. The eggs are from free range chickens with homemade corn beef hash. www.iraallenhouse.com

At 10:00 we head back to the Equinox to meet up with Kenny for the tour. The history of the Equinox goes back well over 200 years. It ran into disrepair in the seventies and was reopened in 1985 as a resort hotel and conference center. There has been additional restoration and reconstruction since then and includes a number of different accommodations in different structures including The Equinox Resort with 136 rooms or suites, The Charles Orivs Inn with 14 suites or superior rooms, The Inns at Equinox with Townhomes, the 1811 House and the Dormy House. There are several restaurants and bars, and a full service Spa. Of course, they cater to weddings and other events and have hosted same sex weddings. www.equinoxresort.com

Based on a recommendation from Kevin, we drive up to Weston to visit the Vermont Country Store. We actually missed the massive Vermont Country Store and stop into the Weston Village Store. This is a very old fashioned, quaint country store selling Vermont cheese, syrup, souvenirs, and gifts since 1891. The owner assures us they have better prices than the Vermont Country Store. We drive into the parking lot of the Vermont Country Store and it is packed, as is the massive store itself. It has everything but I couldn't tell you what it all was as there is so much of it. Of course there are all sorts of cheese and cracker tasting which is fun. Today, there is a book signing with Ben Sargent of the Cooking Channels, “ Hook, Line, and Dinner”. He is promoting his new book, “The Catch” by preparing lobster rolls, which are tasty but is not on my favorite kind of roll for lobster rolls. My favorite roll, which is almost impossible to find, is called from what I under stand, “New England Style” hot dog rolls. They are side split and do not have crust and can therefore by grilled really nicely. If anybody is old enough to remember “Nedicks” in NYC, they served their hot dog on these buns.

Our next stop is The Sugar Shack back in Arlington. The Sugar Shack is a small store with Vermont syrups and food products, cheeses, bakery products and souvenirs. But its real claim to fame is it Norman Rockwell Exhibit. The exhibit includes several of Rockwell's famous magazine covers which local Vermont citizens were used for and other printed works. It also includes a short video which has a very funny story about the famous “Jury cover”. It seems that all members of the jury were voting to convict the defendant except for one. He went on and on, keeping the jury from convicting. At 12 midnight they took another vote and the man voted with the other jurors to convict. They couldn't help but ask him - “Why now, what changed your mind?” He said, “ It's the next day, we get another ten dollars!” Although small, this exhibit is well worth stopping for. www.sugarshackvt.com

We head back home and on the way stop at The Big Moose Deli for lunch. A great little place on the way home on Route 7 in Hoosick, NY.  I have a Turkey Club Panini and I'm good to go.